Fougasse
“The history of bread is the history of men and of all time.”
– Gerard Auzet.
Think focaccia by way of Provence and you have fougasse, a crusty, yeasted flatbread distinctive for its pretty cut-outs mimicking a wheat stalk. And like focaccia, fougasse’s origins go back to good ol’ ancient Rome and the panis focacius, or “bread of the focus” (hearth or fireplace), which were flatbreads cooked in the ashes of the fire.
But if fougasse and focaccia have the same ancestral baby bread daddy, they’re distinct breads now – more like siblings, maybe even cousins. Another member of the far-flung family would be the hearth cakes of England, thanks to the Romans expanding their empire and bringing their bread along with them back in the day.
All of which has gotten me thinking about the evolution of food, and the history of humans adapting their needs and techniques to fit the available food supply, and then tweaking that food supply to reflect their own culture.
Versatile Fougasse
Fougasse provides a perfect example of this. Not only is it a distinctly Provençal bread, prepared with local herbs and ingredients, but those ingredients traditionally changed depending on the season and who was/is preparing it.
Though now typically prepared with olive oil year-round, fougasse used to be made with butter in the summer months. For Jews in the south of France, fougasse is still made with milk for the Jewish holiday Shavuot, to symbolize the Torah’s purity and nourishment.
For Christians, fougasse serves as the centerpiece of the famed “thirteen desserts” of Reveillon, a Provençal Christmas Eve celebration where the desserts represent Christ and the apostles. Check out Epicurious’ yummy-sounding recipe for a holiday-appropriate version of fougasse here.
Herbalicious Goodness
But you don’t have to wait for Shavuot or Christmas Eve to enjoy fougasse – the savory version is a great bread to have at any time. My recipe is sans olives, which have become somewhat common in fougasse, but you could mix it up pretty easily to your taste, adding olives, sundried tomatoes, different herbs, etc. Like I said, it’s a versatile bread.
Reality Bakes
I have to work on getting those slits to stay open for a nice, wide-open leaf shape – they have a tendency to close up on me. But who cares when the bread tastes this great.
Fougasse
Ingredients
- 1 tsp active dry yeast
- 1 cup water, divided
- 1 tsp sugar
- 2 cups bread flour
- 1 tsp sea salt
- 1 tbsp olive oil, plus more for brushing
- Cornmeal, for dusting (optional)
- 1 tsp dried oregano*
- 1 tsp fresh thyme, chopped*
- 1 tsp fresh rosemary, chopped*
- Flaked or coarse sea salt for garnish (optional)
Instructions
- Heat 1/4 cup of the water to 110°F-115°F. Stir in the sugar and yeast and let it stand until foaming and ready to use, about 5 to 10 minutes.
- Lightly oil a large bowl or container.
- Combine the flour, salt, and yeast into the bowl of a stand mixer with a dough hook attached. Add olive oil and three-quarters of the remaining water. Mix on low speed, gradually adding water as the dough starts to come together. Keep slowly adding water, then raise the speed to medium and mix until dough is very elastic, about 7 to 8 minutes.
- Turn the dough into the oiled bowl. Cover with a towel, and leave to rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
- Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
- Generously dust your work surface with flour and add some cornmeal. When dough has risen, carefully turn it out onto the floured work surface; it should be quite loose. Be gentle in the handling so as not to knock out too much air. Dust the dough on the top and sides with flour and cornmeal.
- Spread the dough out on the prepared baking sheet into the shape of an oval, about 1 to 1 1/2-inch thick. Using a razor blade, sharp kitchen knife, or pair of scissors, make a vertical slash down the middle of the dough, then three smaller, angled cuts on each side, like the veins of a leaf. Gently stretch the dough out to open up the holes.
- Cover the dough in a plastic bag and leave to proof until puffy, about 20 minutes.
- Preheat oven to 425°. Gently brush olive oil onto the dough and sprinkle with the oregano, thyme, and rosemary. Add a sprinkle of flaked or coarse sea salt, if using.
- Bake until golden and bread sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom, about 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack for cooling.
Notes
This bread was delicious.